The Life of a Naturalist on Board SeaTrek

By Ray and Angela Hale

I find myself standing on the deck of this amazing pinisi ship, Ombak Putih, I have to pinch myself to make sure that this is not a dream. It is 6.15 am and as usual, when on board, I have risen early to catch the spectacular sunrise. I have watched this golden orb rises in many places, but I can honestly say non rival the beauty of Indonesia. I am not alone in my morning quest. A fellow guest has joined me at this early hour and as he performs his daily stretching exercises on the top deck, he too momentarily breaks his routine to witness this miracle. Whilst our tour leader Anas snaps off another dozen photographs or so to add to her already massive collection of sunrises. The returning of light to a world darked by night is a special moment. From the dawn of our history man has marvelled and even worshipped this celestial event. As I stand and watch in the cool morning air I can see why.

Heading to the New Adventures

We have sailed through the night having left the harbour at Labuan Bajo on our way to the Komodo National Park. Here we will hopefully see the spectacular Komodo Dragon for ourselves and begin what will be a magical journey around the Indonesian archipelago. Unbeknown to our excited guests they will visit remote islands, swim in coral filled seas, witness giant whale sharks breaking the surface form their ocean depths and set foot on deserted islands edged with pink sand. Places where few have ventured, those who have never fail to fall in love, vowing to return one day.

I am guilty as charged, having become one such traveller and have returned many times. My wife and I first came to Southeast Asia in 1998. We visited the island of Borneo in search of the Orangutan. Looking back, we were both young and very inexperienced in the complexities of world travel. Our first night under the stars was traumatic to say the least, but we somehow managed to survive the ordeal and it ignited a flame within that burns to this day.

From Spider Lover to Nature Guide

My name is Ray Hale, and I have been fortunate in my life. I am a “Naturalist on Board” for Seatrek and over the last ten years or so we have sailed with some amazing guests, many of whom have now become close friends. We have broken bread with the amazing crews that devote much of their life to making sure that those that set foot on board are well cared for and want for nothing. The guys and girls that make up the two teams of mariners that man the Ombak Putih and the Katharina are amazing people. But how does a simple man from humble beginnings such as my own find himself looking out to a serene sea as the sun rises.

I remember it as if were yesterday. As a shy, ten-year-old I stood frozen with fear, before me a huge garden spider sat in the middle of a web blocking my path. One of us would surely die. As I pondered on my next move, I felt the reassuring hand of my 90-year-old Grandfather as he lightly placed it on my shoulder. He smiled and leaned past me gently cupping the spider in his hand and then as if by magic he slowly opened it before me and there sat the spider, quite still but quite beautiful.

On that summer’s day as we sat and talked about the beautiful creature in the palm of his hand, he told me why spiders are our friends, why their silk is so useful and above all that we should all love nature however bizarre it may be. It was to be defining moment in my life, and I still recall the passion with which he spoke. As he wove his tales of wonder about squirming worms and industrious ants, I sat in awe of his knowledge. I trembled as he gently shooed this beautiful beast on to my hand and as it wandered gently across my palm my fate was sealed and I fell in love.

From that day butterflies, beetles and bugs galore filled our days and although my grandfather was to sadly pass soon afterwards bringing our adventures to an abrupt end his words have always resonated with me. It was he who encouraged me to take the first step on a journey that would lead me into a magical world. I have spent my life studying everything from Aardvarks to Alligators to Zebras to Zebus. I have travelled the World in search of the endangered and the unusual. We have discovered a new species of blind tarantula in a remote cave system in Sarawak and photographed some of the strangest creatures this planet as to offer. Life has not been dull for my wife and I.

In 2016, to my surprise, I was asked if I would consider joining the team of Seatrek as a Naturalist. In fairness, I was not wholly unexperienced as a seafarer. I had lectured throughout Europe and indeed the world from Borneo to Bogota and more recently had begun a new chapter in my life by lecturing on board cruise ships. It has offered me the chance to bring my message of conservation and protection of the world’s flora and fauna to a wider audience. I am however first and foremost an arachnologist, that of course being a student of the dreaded “S” word…Spiders. Now before you reach for the pause button or roll this magazine into a squatter, I urge you to read on.

Finding New Animals in Hidden Places

My travels have broadened my horizons serving only to increase my enthusiasm for nature and although it is true that I can often be found rummaging around in the undergrowth with a magnifying glass and glass jar searching for creepy crawlies, that is not the only string to my bow. I am passionate about reconnecting people with nature and the worlds endangered species. Young or old it is never too late to begin a magical journey of discovery with the creatures with whom we share this planet.

On our most recent trip with Seatrek, whilst swimming in the remote but stunning waterfall lake, Mata Jitu, known locally as “Diana’s Waterfall” following the late Princess’s secret visit in 1990, we discovered a beautiful water snake simply sitting at the edge watching not only me with suspicious eyes but his impending breakfast of frogs. On another occasion we drifted across the tranquil crater lake on the mysterious long dead volcanic island of Satonda and as we paddled gently to the distant shore to see the thousands of flying foxes (Acerodon mackloti) that resided high in the trees we found ourselves beneath the overhanging mangrove trees and as we pushed our way out we came across a beautiful scorpion that had hitched a lift with us on Angela’s paddle. We knew instantly that this was potentially a new species and whilst some may understandably shiver at the thought, to us it was a moment of euphoria. To see any creature, much less something new to science, should be a cherished moment to anyone and one that we will certainly never forget. Later discussion with the island rangers revealed that they did not know that this magical island had such wonders. We hope to return to Satonda one day to find another specimen and who knows we may even be able to name it perhaps after our hosts.

Teaching and Sharing Stories on the Ship

Since those early days my wife and I have joined a number of trips for Seatrek as the “Naturalists on board”. From Bali to Komodo, Sorong to Raja Ampat, Flores to Flores and many others we have been allowed to be able to impart our knowledge to the many guests from the four corners of the globe. Whilst on board I have had the opportunity to give a series of pre-dinner talks on topics relevant to the trip. This year I told the assembled guests the story of the great naturalist “Alfred Russel Wallace”, a character of course dear to us all at Seatrek. Wallace travelled throughout the Indonesian Archipelago in search of its wildlife wonders and was a catalyst in influencing that giant of natural history, Charles Darwin, to publish his magnus opus, “The Origin Of Species”. I have also had the pleasure and honour to lecture at Down House, the home of Darwin, several times.

Drawing and Learning About Nature

As we headed toward Rinca Island we talked of the discovery of the biggest lizards on earth in “The Story of Komodo: Here be Dragons” and discussed possible future adventures to the jungles of Raja Ampat as the assembled guests enjoy “The Search for the Birds of Paradise”. I introduced the younger members of our group to the marvels of subterfuge and reminded them that “In order to see, one must first look” with my talk entitled “Camouflage and Trickery in The Animal Kingdom.” We live in a technological age where information is literally within our grasp at the push of a button but here on the idyllic Moyo island we have time to look and enjoy paradise before we return to our screens

Inspiring the Next Generation

There is a feeling of great satisfaction to be able to introduce the natural world to an eager ten-year-old and even getting thrashed at chess by a six-year-old holds a certain charm.

During the long hours at sea, as we cruise to our next amazing destination, Angela often breaks out the art materials, and she is soon surrounded by young and old alike, all keen to learn how to draw just some of the amazing creatures they have seen on the trip. It is always a pleasure to see the results when those who claim “Oh, I can’t draw” produce a stunning piece of artwork that will forever remind them, from their fridge door, of their magical trip.

If in the future, just one of these children can introduce their own grandchildren to such marvels and tell them that long ago “a man with a white beard” that they met on a treasured sea trip, inspired them, as my grandfather had inspired me, then I will forever rest easy safe in the knowledge that we have made a mark. Who knows one of these budding “naturalists” might just help save our planet.

Good News for Nature and Hope for the Future

As I finish this piece the news tells me that the sea turtle population has increased by around 30%. A small step but a huge success.

I look forward to seeing you all on another trip and remember “A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step”. The world is your classroom and its nature is your textbook. Let’s learn together.