Back to Indonesia for Another SeaTrek Adventure

By Catherine Heggen

I so enjoyed a SeaTrek journey to Raja Ampat and the Spice Islands a few years ago that I recently returned for another SeaTrek adventure — the Orangutans and Dragons trip. It was not disappointing.

One of the characteristics of a SeaTrek voyage is the careful weaving of experiences – of village life, the visual drama of the landscape and topographic interaction with the sea, of land creatures and birds seen only in the Indonesian archipelago and the marine splendour of corals, fish, turtles and, in the case of my recent trip, whale sharks and manta rays. All this is offered to the curious traveller on one of two SeaTrek vessels that are beautifully maintained, traditionally built timber pinisi boats. My recent adventure was on board the Ombak Putih. But more on her later.

Exploring Borneo and Encountering the Orangutan

I commenced my trip by flying into Pangkalan Bun, a small town in the southwest of Kalimantan on the island of Borneo. My fellow travellers (all four of us) met our guide, Jacky, and were transferred to our river boat home. We spent the next few days gently puttering down the Seruyan River in the Tanjung Puting National Park, visiting villages and research camps including Camp Leakey to see Orangutans. Jacky was knowledgeable and generous with us all, and the boat captain, Hermann, and his first mate, Alum, were experts at spotting wildlife from the bridge. Our elegant cook, Vivian, and her daughter, Tea, somehow managed to produce delicious meals that made us feel comfortable on our “on water” home.

On one occasion, we elected not to attend one of the Orangutan feeding stations and instead moved slowly down the river in the comfort of our boat, spotting wildlife. It was a decision that rewarded us. We saw many orangutans, including babies with their watchful mothers; kingfishers with vibrant plumage that flashed brightly against the green forest backdrop; and proboscis and macaque monkeys socializing in their respective troops high up in the trees. It was a more satisfying and authentic experience than the Orangutan feeding stations, which could at times be crowded with other visitors. Seeing the orangutans and other forest dwellers in their natural habitat was humbling, uplifting, and a never-to-be-forgotten experience.

Into the Next Adventure in Komodo and Beyond

After a return flight and a one-day rest in Sanur on Bali, it was on to Labuan Bajo on the southwest coast of Flores. That’s where the river boat adventurers joined SeaTrek guests on the Ombak Putih. Our tour leaders, Dion and Tinae, greeted us, and the crew enthusiastically welcomed us on board. We spent the next week cruising along the north coast of Sumbawa, and life onboard developed its own rhythm. Our first stop was to visit the Komodo dragons that conveyed suitable menace by the occasional flick of their long tongue.

Dion and Tinae were endlessly patient and courteous with us all and our never-ending questions. Their recap each evening and the briefing for the next day’s adventures were a good way to finish that day’s activities. Even if you elected to stay on the boat and read a book from the library on board or the one you brought along for the journey, the romance of cruising on a double-masted ketch is memorable.

Each day is filled with diverse experiences, including snorkelling with turtles, swimming with whale sharks and manta rays, trekking to a perched lake in an island caldera, or walking to a lush forested waterfall and swimming in the cool water pooling at its base. We visited villages and met gentle residents and gregarious children. One visit took us to see the pinisi boatbuilding and gave us the opportunity to see the progress up close. How skillful and resourceful are those boat builders?

Connection and Conservation

I can’t leave my observations about life on board without noting the exquisite and consistently delicious meals produced in the Ombak Putih galley. Remarkable considering the tight circumstances the galley staff work in. The Ombak Putih crew also give both organised and impromptu musical performances, and a particular highlight is the beach BBQ, which guests and crew alike enthusiastically enjoyed.

What is impressive and made me feel good about being a tourist (albeit I hope a mindful and respectful one) are the efforts of SeaTrek to give back. I loved that we had the opportunity to participate in a local coral rehabilitation program within Komodo National Park. I know from my earlier Raja Ampat trip that SeaTrek also engages in other positive community programs with local villagers, including providing books, writing tools, and goggles, amongst other programs.

The overall impression you take away from your journey is one of profound wonder at the land and marine environment of the far eastern edge of the Indonesian archipelago. You are also struck by the resourcefulness and kindness of the local villagers who live there. Once you experience it, you can’t help but return.